North to San Ignacio

North To San Ignacio
We left Loreto in the gray of dawn. Bahia de Concepcion called to us as it had on the way south, and we pulled over time after time to be by its so-blue waters.
One stop was on an isolated beach that had promised camping. When we had driven the sand roads to get there, we found what may once have been a few camping spots and an almost falling down shack. But it was a lovely place to walk awhile. 
I wandered past the shack, and as I did so, I could swear I heard some chickens. Turned around, and sure enough, chickens. Happy plump ones.
The door to the shack was on this side, away from the “road” we’d come in on. The door was open. Furniture inside. Outside, near the chickens, some fresh hay. Not an abandoned shack!
No one seemed to be around, so we explored a little more and left a gift of a fruit bar near the door.
On the way north, stopping to search for petroglyphs (didn’t find them) and and also look for the hot springs our guidebook said would be there (didn’t find it). But the views we incredible at every stop.
Next stop, Mulege. This time we took time to explore. We headed out to the sea, driving through town, onto a dirt road, onto pavement resembling a super highway, then back to dirt. We finally got to the water. I pulled on my bathing suit, set out my beach chair, and took in the sun. Cinda spent her time, as usual, combing the beach in search of prize shells. We saw egrets, herons and gulls in search of a late breakfast.
We snacked on tortillas, fresh queso, and avocado. When a group arrived, we left. On the way back to town, as we crossed the little stretch of pavement that seemed like a super highway, we saw men at work. Sweeping. There were at least six men out sweeping that little, less than quarter mile stretch of pavement. A small stretch, but clean, clean, clean. 
In the same area as the super clean stretch of highway we saw a most unusual sight. Palm trees stood, dead, their fronds gone. This likely happened in one of the last major storms in the past decade. It was so strange – dozens and dozens of trees with their heads ripped off. 
Back in town we found a little cafe with the absolute best cake de tres leches I have ever had. Delicious. Melt-in-the-mouth. Sinful. I could have eaten four or five.
Then, up to see the church, an old mission with rock walls three feet thick, built in the late 1700s. The original, on the river, was built much earlier, but was safely rebuilt high over town after a major flood. Cinda longed for the museum, but it was closed
We reached Santa Rosalia and checked on the ferry to Guaymas, but it wasn’t running for two more days and the cost would have been over $400, so on we went to San Ignacio.
The road north out of Santa Rosalia is steep and narrow, and of course we landed behind a monster truck for several miles until I could pass. We groaned along at a whopping four miles per hour until I could get around.
We arrived in San Ignacio and I tried to call the woman we were supposed to connect with, but the number didn’t exist. This is a woman we didn’t know, a friend of a friend. She had said she lived behind a hotel out of town a bit, so we drove there, hoping to spot a place that “looked like” hers. Didn’t work.
Back to town to the only little place with internet so I could hook up and check my email, be sure I had the right number. I asked the man if he happened to know our contact, and hooray for small towns. He was her landlord! He also gave me her correct phone number and directions to her place. We were off.
We pulled up and began to walk to her house, and a woman was walking toward us. Yep, the woman we’d been looking for.
Hugs all around, then she ushered us into her house and we settled in. We took her out that night (super margaritas!!), then back to her house for chat.
It was with some regret on all sides when we left in the morning. The woman we stayed with was interesting, someone I’d like to get to know better. Also, she’s in such a small town that visitors were a welcome diversion. Plans are already underway for my return visit!

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2 Comments

  1. Phew! Glad you found Seva. I was reading, thinking: ask ANYone! They will know her! Yes, you must return. It’s a magical little place. This trip is about tastes and samples, que no? Can’t believe you’re heading north all ready. What a trip you’re having!

    Reply

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